Guide to Nepal’s Three Passes Trek
Reading Time: 11 minutes The Three Passes Trek in Nepal is in the Everest Region (Sagarmatha National Park) and takes trekkers across three high passes, Kongma La (18,209 ft / 5,550 m), Cho La (17,782 ft / 5,420 m), and Renjo La (17,560 ft / 5,360 m) – hence, the Three Passes Trek. It’s a lollipop loop that can be done starting at Lukla (that scary mountain airport that you fly into) or further down the mountains at Jiri, Shivalaya, Salleri, or Phaplu (I recommend starting at Jiri if you have the time – it will also save you on having to buy plane tickets to/from Lukla).
If you’re only going to Nepal once in your life – as you should – and you’re intent on hiking (not doing a meditation retreat or growing dreads and hanging out in Pokhara), then you need to do the Three Passes Trek. And ideally, you need to hike in from Jiri. Fuck Everest Base Camp, fuck the Annapurna Circuit, fuck the Manaslu Circuit, and fuck Poon Hill. Three Passes Trek from Jiri. This is what you need to do. And if Everest Base Camp is really important to you, it can easily be done as a detour from the Three Passes Trek (normally this will add one day – if you’re slow, maybe two; if you’re fast, maybe none).
Are you required to have a guide for the Three Passes Trek? No. Do you need a guide for the Three Passes Trek? Not really (do not buy into all the fear-mongering in Kathmandu – these are just people trying to get you to hand over your rupees). Is hiking the Three Passes Trek expensive? No. Do you need to bring a tent, sleeping pad, or winter sleeping bag? No. Is it expensive to fly to Nepal? Usually, yes, but once you arrive, everything is cheap!
Three Passes Trek Facts
- (Unofficial) Capital: Namche Bazaar
- Language: Nepali
- Currency: Nepalese Rupee, NPR
- Time Zone: NPT (UTC+05:45)
- Calling Code: +977
- Drinking Age: 18
- Drinking In Public: Yes
- Drinking Tap Water: No
- Flushing Toilet Paper: No
- Vaccinations Required: CDC
- Credit Cards: Carry cash
- Tipping: Not expected
- Emergency Number: 100
- Outlets: Type C / D / M (230 V / 50 Hz)
- Visa Requirements: External Link!
Three Passes Trek Basics
Language
On the Three Passes Trek, almost everyone you meet will have some English language abilities (talk to the kids – they’re very interested in you), so don’t fret if your Nepalese or Hindi is rusty. The two words that you’ll need are namaste (hello) and dhanyabad (thank you). The Sherpa language, called Sherpa, is also spoken by some people. Sherpa is unwritten, which accounts for the various spellings of many of the villages (e.g. Dzonglha/Dzongla/Zonglha), so don’t worry if you’re confused by different spellings on your map versus the menu in your tea house versus your guidebook (which is probably too heavy to be carrying in the first place).
Geography
The route to the Three Passes Trek heads north into the mountains until Namche Bazaar. From here, hikers can choose to hike either clockwise or counterclockwise. Counterclockwise is the more common route and the one I recommend (particularly if it’s your first time at altitude). The Three Passes trek takes trekkers through four valleys in addition to the three passes, Kongma La (18,209 ft / 5,550 m), Cho La (17,782 ft / 5,420 m), and Renjo La (17,560 ft / 5,360 m). Kongma La is generally considered the most difficult (longest), Cho La requires you to cross a glacier (microspikes are helpful here), and Renjo La is commonly thought to be the easiest. Granted, this can all change depending on weather and conditions. For more on the Three Passes Trek route, check this post.
Tea Houses
The tea houses (i.e. lodges) scattered throughout the villages along the Three Passes Trek are where you will (probably) stay each night (if you wanted to camp, you could, but it’s totally unnecessary and absolutely not required). During peak season, these can (apparently) get crowded. However, if you’re awesome and you go in the winter (more on this below), you shouldn’t have any trouble finding space in a lodge (as practically half of all the buildings in any given town are lodges). The tea houses usually cost between 100 and 400 rupees per night (~$1-$4) and have hot meals and beverages for purchase.
Villages
As much as you may imagine “trekking through the Himalayas” to be an exercise in solitude, this idea errs wildly on the side of “nope, sorry.” On the the Three Passes Trek, you will be constantly met with other trekkers, locals, pack animals, and, most exciting of all, villages. Depending on your route, you may pass through as many as five or six villages in a single day. They all (at least on the Three Passes Trek) have food, accommodation, and friendly mountain-dwellers to aid you on your way up into the mountains. If you go up alone and decide you need a guide, hiring someone from one of the villages to go with you on your trek will also be possible.
When to Go
The most popular season for the Three Passes Trek is the same as Everest Base Camp, the fall (September to November). The second most popular season is spring (March to May), also the peak season for Everest climbers. The summer months are monsoon season in Nepal, so unless you are a huge fan of trekking through the rain with limited views, it’s probably best to avoid this time (unless you are willing to trade views for solitude – but maybe you’ll get lucky with the weather). Winter generally has limited crowds and great weather, but it is cold (I like the winter – more on this below).
Three Passes Trek Route
The Trail
The Three Passes Trek trail is very well-defined. The scale of the mountains makes navigation much different than what you would find in a heavily forested area. Most of the time, you walk up, down, or across a valley and have few options for where to go. It’s not like you will suddenly make a wrong turn left and accidentally go over a 23,000 ft / 7,000 m. You can get a paper map in Kathmandu for the region, which should help you with the big junctions (if you somehow find yourself alone and with no locals to ask for directions). For more on the Three Passes Trek route, check this post.
The Passes
As stated above, the passes are Kongma La (18,209 ft / 5,550 m), Cho La (17,782 ft / 5,420 m), and Renjo La (17,560 ft / 5,360 m). Again, Kongma La is generally considered the most difficult (longest), Cho La requires you to cross a glacier (microspikes are helpful here), and Renjo La is commonly thought to be the easiest. Granted, this can all change depending on weather and conditions. It’s wise to get an early start on the days you plan to cross each pass to give yourself adequate time and avoid the afternoon weather (typically worse than what you wake up to).
Everest Base Camp
This is completely doable if you want to detour to Everest Base Camp and/or Kala Patthar. The first village west of Kongma La (the second village east of Cho La), you can make it to Everest Base Camp and back in a day (via Gorak Shep). If you also want to hike Kala Patthar, you could either do one huge day back to Lobuche or stay the night in Gorak Shep and do Kala Patthar the afternoon before your stay or the morning after. For more on Everest Base Camp, check this page.
Hiking from Jiri
Taking a bus or jeep to Jiri (or Shivalaya, one village ahead) and then hiking to Lukla (instead of flying to Lukla) is a challenging and rewarding section of the region that is not as heavily trafficked as the trail above Lukla (where most trekkers start). If you’re short on time, instead of starting from Jiri, you can save yourself a day or two and take a bus or jeep to Salleri or Phaplu, which puts you about two days close to Lukla from Jiri.
Turning Around
Every time I have been up in the Everest Region, there has been much fear-mongering about the passes. “The passes are closed, there is too much snow” or “The passes are closed because ‘I don’t know why I just heard somebody say that.'” Listen, friend, if you’re in Nepal to hike the Three Passes, go and hike the Three Passes. Go and see for yourself. Start early in the morning, and if the trail, pass, or the weather turns out to be too much, turn around. In absolute terms, the passes really aren’t that far from the nearest villages. Don’t be afraid to go and check out the conditions for yourself, but don’t be afraid to turn around if things look above your experience level.
Three Passes Trek Food
Food on the way to Three Passes Trek is far more plentiful than you may imagine. Many lodges have many options, and you could easily eat something different every night (or be like me and stick to Dal Bhat, pizza, and momos). Check out this post for more on food on the Three Passes Trek.
Dal Bhat
Dal bhat is perhaps the most plentiful dish on the road to the Three Passes Trek and is certainly one that you should be eating to fuel your marathon mountain march. This traditional meal consists of rice, lentil soup (dal), and vegetables (and/or some meat if you’ve opted to eat animals on this trek). In addition to typically being one of the cheaper options on the menu, dal bhat also means refills. You get complimentary refills on your rice, lentil soup, and vegetables. It’s easy to see why this is what the guides and porters usually eat. Remember, “Dal Bhat power, twenty-four hours.”
Meat
There’s not a huge debate surrounding the quality of meat on the way up to Base Camp (that I’m aware of), but it’s something trekkers should consider. As much as I love eating roasted animals, I do not eat meat in the Himalayas. Do I have a scientific reason for this decision? No. It’s simply because I don’t know how many days in the sun each meaty meal spent on the back of a porter (and because the meat is generally more expensive). Also, since eating beef isn’t really a thing in Nepal, and since cows are my favorite animals (to eat), it’s not worth the risk.
Alcohol
As with meat, alcohol is something I avoid whilst hiking (upward) in the Himalayas. This is a personal decision, but drinking alcohol (especially in excess) can hinder your acclimatization efforts – and altitude sickness is not something to be taken lightly. A night of partying in Namche is not worth turning your Three Passes Trek adventure into an expensive (but probably awesome) helicopter ride back to Kathmandu.
Water
So now that you’ve sworn off the bottle, it’s time to get serious about hydration. Water should be something you’re constantly ingesting on the Three Passes Trek. Chances are that your body will be in nonstop and desperate need of water to fend off the effects of altitude sickness, dehydration, and the possible fallout from your third helping of dal bhat last night. I bring a SteriPEN with me on my hikes in Nepal and purify water that I get from the tea house’s tap (you usually have to ask for this). Buying plastic water bottles contributes to the garbage problem in the mountains (and we all know plastic bottles are evil).
Three Passes Trek Tips & Tricks
The Winter
Yes, “Winter in the Himalayas” may sound scary, but the truth is that it’s probably the best time to visit (this is based on my having been there twice in winter and once in spring). You may expect the Himalayas’ winter months to bring a ton of snow, but this is not the case. Most days, you can expect clear skies with very little precipitation. Just make sure to bring an extra base layer because it’s cold.
Wi-Fi
Yes, with the civilization in the Himalayas, you will also find wi-fi. Generally speaking, once you get above Namche Bazaar, getting free wi-fi will be difficult (if not impossible). Generally, you must buy cards from the lodges with passcodes to access the “EVEREST LINK” wi-fi network. These cards are sold in different denominations, the most expensive being 1,000 NPR (~$10 US) for 24 hours of use. These cards may not always be available, and lodges may not always sell them at face value. Also, many lodges turn off the electricity after a certain time (which means no more wi-fi), so be sure to ask beforehand. You will probably get a cell signal in many places if you have a SIM from Kathmandu (Ncell is what you want).
Lukla Flight
I highly recommend taking a bus to Jiri and beginning your hike from there, but if your time is limited, then a flight to Lukla may be your only option. The flight to Lukla is commonly referred to being “the most dangerous flight in the world”. This is largely because of its being placed on under-researched lists of random internet blogs (there have been three fatal accidents involving airplanes at the airport – the most recent of which was in 2010). Yes, the flight to Lukla is an adventure, but it’s certainly not a death sentence. The flight will cost around $150 each way – more on the flight here.
ATMs
Yes, there are ATMs in the Everest Region. As of writing this, there’s one in Lukla and two in Namche Bazaar. None are guaranteed to work, so I would bring cash from Kathmandu to avoid headaches. Ninety-five percent of places do not accept cards. If the ATMs aren’t working, places in Lukla and Namche offer cash advances with a credit card. Some places in Namche Bazaar accept cards, but few places above Namche will take anything besides cash. Ensure you have enough money for the way up (and back down).
For more on the Three Passes Trek, visit my Three Passes Trek page.
Awesome articles, I read your Manaslu, EBC and Annapurna articles as well and I was wondering if you have any recommendations for some less frequented tea house solo treks? I’ll be in Nepal 3 months, Feb – April 2025. Right now all I have planned is three peaks and some volunteering.
When you say Three Peaks do you mean Three Passes? As far as less popular treks, the only one I’ve had my eye on that I haven’t done (that’s not popular) is the Dhaulagiri Circuit, but most people doing this trek will be required to camp at least one night so I don’t think that meets your teahouse requirement. You could check out the Mardi Himal Trek or just look at a map and go somewhere there’s not an established “trek”.
hii i am planing to do the three passes trek in march-April do you want to connect?
I am also planning to do in March, April.
Hey Mac,
This article was so helpful for me as I couldn’t find any resource, which would clear my doubts about trekking the three passes in the winter.
Happy to help!
Once more massive thanks for the great amount of info. This is insanely helpful!
Two questions:
1) is this in 2024 with the new regulations still allowed without a guide/porter?
2) Route from Jiri – all my research suggested 7-8days assuming a few detours. Can you share your quick itinerary and how to get to Jiri from KTM?
1) Based on speaking with people, I’ve been unclear about what things are like in the ground in 2024, but my impression is that you are still not required to have a guide/porter (but again, I do not know this with 100% certainty).
2) I took a bus to Jiri from KTM. Hiking from Jiri to past Lukla took me three days (I would say that’s on the quicker side).
Hi Mac,
When did you do the Jiri to Lukla trek?.. I read a comment from August 2024 on another site saying that the trail is all but ruined due to road construction and many Tea houses are closed.. I’m doing it mid November this year. Best.
I did it over December/January 2015/2016.
I would be interested to hear about your experience when you’re back.
Yes I will let you know how it goes..
I’m doing the 3 Passes , EBC and KP also going to do some side treks.
32 days in total.
That sounds like an awesome trip!
Looking forward to the report!
Do you have any boot recommendations?
If you really want boots (I did this in trail runners), I would check out something like these: https://alnk.to/d3DekTU
That’s great thank you. I looked at the la sportiva tx5 GTX. would these be overkill for this route?
For me, they would be overkill. But if you’re comfortable wearing them and you know you like them, then you probably won’t be mad at yourself for using them.
Hi, I’m hoping to do the Three Passes March ’25, do you have any recommendations for companies with guides where you travel as a group but can book as a solo traveller? Would like to go with a local company!
Can you clarify what you mean by “travel as a group but can book as a solo traveler”?
As in joining a group of strangers!
Unfortunately, I have no personal experience with this in Nepal so there’s nobody I can recommend.
Hi i am planning to to the three passes trek in march/april 25 do you want to connect?
Amazing article and photographs, thank you so much.
You got it!
Hi just wondering roughly how long it would take to do the 3 Passes trek at a steady pace thinking of doing it in March 2025 just trying to get an idea of how much time to plan for?
Cheers Al
What do you consider a “steady pace”? If you’re unsure of how long it’s going to take you, I suggest budgeting more time rather than less.
Yeah sorry a bit ambiguous basically average hiking pace not slow or fast just kind of average (not sure if this is any better :) ) would 4 weeks be enough for example or is it doable in 3 weeks from starting in Siri
All I can tell you with certainty is that either three or four weeks would be more than enough time for me to do it.
cheers, thanks for the reply
Hello, starting Three Pass trail on May 25 from Salleri. Reading that I might need Ice Axes for some passes, is it true? Very experience hiker but I don’t do climbing.
Thanks!
It’s possible that conditions could warrant using ice axes and protection. This has never been the case when I’ve been there, but that doesn’t mean it’s impossible.
Hi Gabriel : I am also planning in May 2025, would you like to connect?
What a fantastic article on the Everest Three Passes trekking in the Everest region! It provides extensive information about the breathtaking natural landscapes, towering mountains, and vibrant Sherpa cultures.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you very much for the great post
Thank you for reading!
Hi, wicked page
I’ve read up on your articles, really interested in the Three Pass Trek, thank you to your honest information.
I’m curious how many more added days by starting from Jiri?
That completely depends on your fitness and how quickly you want to hike. For me, it added three days, but I would say that’s on the quicker side.
Thanks for sharing such an amazing post, The Everest Region is the hub for adventure, and adventure people complete their passion for adventure in this province. Your blog helps people plan their trip at the right time and the pictures are awesome.
This is very informative. Thank you for taking time in sharing your experience. I have just decided to do it in March 2024 as a solo backpacker, without a guide or porter. In case anyone here is going in the same month I’m more than happy to buddy up instagram handle: ikaterox
Thanks for the great blog.
I will be retuning to Everest region in March 20224 and am trying to figure out of I can take on the 3 passes as a solo trekker (no guide, no porter) as a reasonably fit 56 yo woman.
The other option is to repeat the amazing trek I did when I was 29 yo from Jiri to Gokyo Ri. Ideally Id like to do something differeint thoigh and dealing witht he throngs of trekkers heading to EBC is not really my thing. I’m wondering aboit path finding – how clearly marked are the passes? Im aware that I can most likely buddy up on the passes or even hire a guide for them but would love your thoughts. THANK YOU!
The trails over the passes aren’t well-marked (although they’ve added more markers since I first did this hike as I saw when I went up Kongma La once more a few years later). The passes themselves are fairly well marked as they’ve been covered in prayer flags.
Thank you Mac! Thinking for me either take a guide or choose an easier better marked trail.
Hi! What an amazing and encouraging trip report! I have done a similar trek in Peru called the Ausangate circuit that went over 4 high altitude passes, but it only took me about 6 days. I have a question about meat eating, however. Did you find plain meats available in the villages at all? I eat a keto low carb diet due to autoimmune issues. I’m fat adapted, so I fuel off of animal fats + meats. I’m planning on bringing pemiccan bars and jerky. I’ve heard I might be able to find yak butter available. Do you know if I can find any dried meats to carry, even in Katmandu?
I avoided meat in the mountains although it was generally available. I am not sure about the availability of dehydrated meals in Kathmandu as I didn’t eat any of these myself. Honestly, if you have a restricted diet I would suggest bringing as much as you’re comfortable with from home.
Thanks so much. Ya, it’s pretty complicated for me because I can’t handle any nuts, grains and seeds in my diet. I’m really hoping I can find dried meats at the very least in Katmandu. I’m a full time nomad so carrying foods from “home” won’t really be possible for a longer trek in Nepal. Anyway, thanks again for this amazing report!
@crystal , Hi im a sherpa living and studying in new york to be a nurse. In our culture we have a dehydrated meat called “sukuti” . In the past sherpas didn’t have a way to keep meat edible and not rot. We didn’t have fridges back then and still we don’t really have them. Sukuti is a goat/lamb dried meat , thats really chewy and tasty in my opinion. you can do a google search on it. Most tea houses and homes in this area will have sukuti , but its usually reserved for their family . Not really sold . BUT I am sure if you ask kindly , they might sell it to you and I think some places sell it to tourists anyway.
Wonderful information! I’m here now getting ready for my first trek. I’ll look for some sukuti in Katmandu!
Hi there, my brothers and I will do the Three passes, starting late March this year. Do we need crampons during this trek because we have to cross a glacier? If so, how big is the distance we have to cover through this glacier?
I’m in doubt if my hiking boots (Hanwag tatra II) are suitable in case we need crampons.
Thanks in advance!
I used microspikes to cross the glacier on the east side of Cho La. If in doubt, it’s best to bring some traction with you – worst case you don’t use it.
Thanks for the advise.
I’m going to hike the three passes loop starting from Jiri. I’m traveling solo and would love to meet others to hike with. I’m planning on starting early March 2023. Anyone interested in joining me? I’m female and would prefer to travel with women or a combo.
Hi — I am considering this trip and leaving in the next few days. Have you already arrived / have a group together?
I am leaving for Nepal on 3/20 so will start hiking from Jiri probably on 3/24. No group, going to start solo and hopefully meet up with friendly trekkers. What is your plan???
A complete guide for Everest 3 High Pass Trek. Thanks for sharing your experiences here. Keep on sharing and inspire other people to trek in the Himalayas.
It’s a beautiful place to trek!
Hi there, I am looking at tackling the Three passes trek solo this upcoming late Feb, early march. I have scoured the web and haven’t been able to find any beta on potential snow conditions. Any idea what I may encounter? I am okay with some post holing but I am just curious about avalanche hazards and snowbound conditions. Any insight would be greatly appreciated thanks :)
I’ve been up there in March and there was little snow. The mountains get most of their precipitation in the summer months while winter is typically the dryest When I was there I went up Kongma La and there was a bit of snow (it had snowed three days before I hiked), but it was completely manageable.
Thanks for your speedy reply! I really appreciate it. That is good to hear. Any other high pass trekking you would recommend as well?
Hey Mac, Thanks for all the information and great website. There is one thing that is not clear to me about this route. Do I take a satellite/gps device or not? Does gps navigation on phone (with downloaded offline maps in Komoot) will suffice? I have always navigated this way but since the Himalaya are new to me… Is it necessary to have satellite reception on the pass in case of emergency? Hope to hear from you! Best Funs
GPS navigation on a phone will function so long as you’re familiar with it; phone apps will work the same in the Himalayas as they do elsewhere so long as you have the maps downloaded for offline use. When you ask “satellite reception on the pass in case of emergency” are you talking about calling for help? If you need to call for help with a phone you will need (and not have) reception. It’s best to bring a PLB for times like this.
Nowadays we can see many people blogging without information but this article is really informative which is important for travelers.
That’s the goal!
I’m doing the three high passes in October this year! You definitely have the most detailed blog I’ve found. I’m just curious what you do with your toilet paper if you can’t flush it? Do you carry a garbage bag full of toilet paper around?
Thank you!
Throw it away or pack it out (bring extra Ziplocs).
I still remember when we met at Tengboche while you were doing this trek. We had some beautiful conservation went on and you were so adventurous. I follow you on Facebook as well love to see your post on there too. And Keep posting such a piece of great information to everyone who wishes the adventure in Nepal.
I remember when we met, too – I can’t wait to make it back to Nepal!
As a trekking guide, i have done this Everest three-pass trek couple of times every time i go there i feel more energetic and fantastic. Reading this article now while staying in the home because of the coronavirus and no trekkers in Nepal for the trek recall all my walking experience in those places.
It’s an awesome post, and really useful to get the information of an Everest Three Passes Trek. Thank you so much for publishing such a nice article.
Thanks for the feedback!
Amazing Trip.
Highly recommended!
It is a great guide Mac. We have a similar 3-passes trek in Indian Himalayas.
I have yet to get there – what’s it called?
Auden’s Col – Mayali Pass – Patangini Dhar trek
I would love to know too. Waiting for reply. Thanks!