Australia Bike Tour Day 38: The Northern Territory

Today was a big day in the world of solo non-competitive Outback bicycle touring.

I crossed my second border – this time, into the Northern Territory.

The Northern Territory (NT), the third largest but least populated of Australia’s eight states and territories, borders Western Australia (to the west), South Australia (to the south), and Queensland (to the east). The northern coast traces the Timor Sea, the Arafura Sea and the Gulf of Carpentaria.

Only 1,113 more miles (1,791 km) until my destination in Darwin.

And that’s not even counting the 315-mile (508 km) detour to check out that big rock, Uluru (Ayers Rock).

Despite the flatness of the Outback, I’ve been slowly climbing the entire way to the border and my elevation today peaked at 1,759 ft (536 m) – the highest I’ve been since the Adelaide Hills.

I’ve always thought of Tasmania as Australia’s Alaska (i.e., a remote, vast wilderness with little population), but I’m starting to reconsider this comparison as I learn more about the Northern Territory.

Litchfield and Kakadu are two national parks that people continue to mention, and I am considering visiting when I get further north. The Katherine Gorge also looks worth a visit (although I don’t think I’ll have time this time around).

Despite most of the Northern Territory being dominated by desert, the climate in the north is tropical. Up there, the wet season brings tropical cyclones and monsoon rains (typically December to March).

And speaking of rain, it’s raining once again (despite it being the middle of dry season).

So begins day number seven of riding in the rain.

I stop at the Kulgera gas station 13 miles (21 km) past the border for a sugar boost and a bit of planning.

The previous two days of riding were my first consecutive days of over 70 miles (112 km). If I can manage to cover another 83 miles (133 km) today to Erldunda, then I will be able to take shelter in a service station (and, more importantly, use a flushing toilet). Erldunda also marks the turnoff for Uluru.

I’m feeling good and decide to put in the effort to justify a frothy refreshment and a bag of candy at the end of the day.

As I ride through the rain, debating whether or not my sunglasses help of not, my mind wanders to the fact that I can’t remember the last I haven’t gotten a flat since swapping my back tire in Adelaide. Except now that I’m within ten miles (16 km) of my day’s destination (and since it’s raining), I get my first flat in two weeks of riding.

Sitting on the side of the road, being rained on and watching cars pass, grabbing a hitch to finish out the day is tempting. At least three different people have already offered me rides.

However, getting in a car would defeat the idea of “biking across Australia.”

With my tire patched, I manage to make it to Erldunda just as the sun is setting.

I am happy to find that not only are my anticipated beverages and snacks readily available, but my cycling friends from Coober Pedy have also arrived.

We sit inside, taking full advantage of the mediocre wifi and outlets before slipping into the caravan park and setting up camp in the dark (because who wants to pay $15 to sleep outside in their tent?

And yes, it’s still raining.

• Start: Marryat Creek, South Australia
• End: Erldunda, Northern Territory
• Day’s Distance: 83.17 mi / 133.85 km
• Total Distance: 1,340.46 mi / 2,157.26 km