Everest Base Camp Day 13: Namche Bazaar to Lukla
Reading Time: 3 minutes - Starting elevation: 11,290 ft / 3,440 m
- Ending elevation: 9,100 ft / 2,800 m
- Elevation change: -2,190 ft / -640 m m
- Starting oxygen: 67% of sea level
- Ending oxygen: 73% of sea level
- Distance covered: 11.12 mi / 17.9 km
- Time hiked: 6h 15m
Today begins what will be the last day of my first Himalayan adventure.
Once again, the hike I will be doing today took me multiple days on the way up to Base Camp. The way down is truly quicker.
I wake up where I fell asleep (usually a good thing): on the cafe floor that Mr. Susan (the owner) allowed me to sleep in. To my surprise, I look at something I haven’t seen once this entire trip: snow falling from the sky (it turns out it’s a good thing Susan moved me in from the porch).
And it looks like it’s been falling for a while now.
How grateful I am to be going down instead of up.
All my known hiking associates departed Namche Bazaar yesterday, so I am again alone; I like things that way.
I begin my trip south through the snow, incredibly grateful that I am not just beginning my trip up to Base Camp. However, seeing everything covered in snow would undoubtedly be spectacular.
After an hour of hiking, the snow has transitioned into rain, bringing muddy slopes and trails (which have been thoroughly mixed with pack animal excrement).
The benefits of hiking downhill (yes, I prefer down to up; I know some of you out there with awful knees don’t agree) are negated by the now treacherous mudslides that must be avoided during the descent.
Despite the mud, it’s fairly easygoing, and I am surprised to find myself reunited with Michael and Garth halfway down to Lukla (I met them all the way back on day one).
Teamed up with my Aussie companions, we head down past the villages of Monjo, Phakding, and numerous others dotting the hillsides and valleys of the lower Himalayas.
The worst part about coming down from the Himalayas to Lukla (other than the fact that you’re leaving one of the most spectacular places in the world) is that the last bit of hiking takes you uphill. For something like 1.86 mi / 3 km!
Steepest at the end, this last bit of elevation change serves to remind those cocky enough to consider the descent from Everest Base Camp a simple task who is boss (the mountains are, in case you’re wondering).
Having finally arrived in Lukla, I follow Mike and Garth to the hotel their guide recommended and where they are staying.
I am willing to splurge after thirteen days without having taken a shower, washed my clothes, or slept in a room with an ensuite bathroom (not that all of these things have to do with remaining clean). We also appear to be the only guests in the entire hotel.
But the bathrooms are clean, the water in the shower is not freezing (but it’s still very cold), and they have a cafe across the street with pizza and beer.
Tomorrow, I fly back to Kathmandu; tonight, life is good.
Mission accomplished.
EBC Day 1 | 1.5 | 2 | 2.5 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 12 | 13
Hi there!
I’m so glad I came across your journey, this is the most honest account of the EBC I’ve seen, so thank you!
I’m currently in the planning stages of my trip and considering I live at sea level I’ll definitely take a bit extra time for slower ascension and more acclimatisation days. I cant wait!
Happy to share! Have a great trip!
Im going to do this in late March 2024. Any thoughts on where I could stay to break the trek from Namce to Phakding? Im planning an extra day for this so not to go so fast. Any suggestions appreciated.
There are a few places between Namche and Phakding but I can’t speak for the lodging availability.
To be honest, if you don’t think you can make it from Namche to Phakding (downhill) in a day, you may want to reconsider your trip.
Hello Mac, Thanks for the details information about Everest base camp trekking.
You got it, friend.
Hi Mac! Thanks for the funny posts! I have one question. Is it possible to make the trek (in winter) without buying any water? I suppose the rivers are solid frozen in the mornings, but what about in daytime? Are there water sources in any village or along the way in order to fill, or one needs to ask for cold water (I suppose free?) in the guesthouses?
Thanks!
I can’t speak for all the villages, but there is running water in a few that I remember (Dinboche, Chukhung), but you can ask for tap water at any guest house and they will fill up your bottles for free. That said, they will (sometimes) be annoyed if you just take the water and leave without buying anything since in some places they actually have to bring up the water from sources and are not simply taking it out of a tap. You could probably just throw them 100 or 200 rupees ($1/$2) for filling your bottles with tap water if you’re not buying anything.
Thanks for the info!
Enjoyed your hilarious posts! I’m going to EBC next month! Can’t wait!
Going solo at the moment, but I’m thinking whether I should get a porter-guide since this is my first time hiking in the Himalaya.
Is the trek clearly marked? Afraid I will take wrong paths somewhere.
The trek is very clearly marked and if you’re going next month then it will also be crowded with trekkers. If in doubt, just ask someone (there will be people everywhere).
Thanks Mac! Sorry one more question, did u get into trouble for not having the TIMS and Sagarmatha National park permit in advance? Is it Ok to just apply for both at the place u did yours (i will make sure to turn around if anyone called me haha). Cos I will arrive in Kathmandu on weekend and I doubt the TAAN office is open.
There is no way to get your Sagarmatha NP permit in advance (that I know of), you get it when you enter the park. You can get your TIMS on the way up (when I was in Nepal this past March the Everest Region wasn’t accepting TIMS – the people in charge up there were at odds with the people in Kathmandu – and you had just just buy a different permit when you got up there anyway). Nothing to worry about! (Just bring enough cash.)
Cool! Thank you sooo much!
My 19 yo daughter just returned from this trip, solo there, but trekked with a small group. Greatest thing she has ever done! My 50yo ass is inspired and likely to do this next year. Great narrative. Envious I am!
If you’re feeling really inspired, I would suggest the Three Passes Trek + EBC.
My daughter and I have decided Kilimanjaro is next summer. Little easier on this old man and her third continent. Excited!
Thank you for this very entertaining blog! I so envy you for your ability to solo to EBC and take your time along the way. At 65, this is a bucket list trip for me. I will be one of those irritating, though hopefully friendlier, members of an all womens group that you had to work your way around. I have been training for a year, since going to Peru for the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu (another bucket list item now scratched off, but would do it again in a minute). Great blog with a very enjoyable sense of humor! Thanks for sharing and hope I am not one of those copter rescues. That would be so distressing after looking forward to this for so long. What’s next for you??
Starting a hike across the Japanese Alps in a couple of weeks.
Im LOLing while reading at 2 am! hahahaha Im loving it! I think i can do it. I need to train yet for about a year.
A year of training would certainly do, but I think you could certainly shorten that training schedule.
Wow, super enjoyed this series. Great source for Nepal, where everyone tells you that you MUST have a shit-ton of gear (people thought my hiking partner, an ex-olympic runner with an 80L pack, was my sherpa, bc I used a super compressed-down Exodus on the AC) or get a guide (only required on certain treks). Def gonna check this out. Good luck on the CDT! Starting my PCT thru in 12 days :P
Yeah, a lot of people go overboard on EBC. Have fun on the PCT!
Hi Mac,
Thanks for the detailed trip report.
Did you get to use your tent in any stage of your trip ?
Thanks
I used my tent one night in Dingboche, but it was 100% unnecessary.
Thanks